Pici & Crab Sauce

Pici has been on my to-do list for a while. This style of pasta originates in the Tuscan region in Italy. It’s a thicker - rustic noodle that stands up well to ragus and heavier sauces. They're also one of the easier style pastas to make that require minimal tools or technical finessing. I opted for an eggless dough to keep it true to its roots. Flour & water- in this case a mix of 00 @mulinocaputo , tumminia flour from @molini_del_ponte_drago , and semolina. For the sauce I went pretty untraditional - a red sauce using @biancodinapolitomatoes tomatoes, white wine, chili flakes, butter, evoo, bay leaf, loads of garlic and a whole mess of blue crabs. Non traditional yes, but super decadent and well worth the effort. Video of the process is below.

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The Pasta

Ingredients:

156 g semolina

168 g 00 flour

68 g tumminia flour or similar (whole wheat)

190 g water

1 tbsp olive oil

*serves 4 - 5 people

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Directions:

1. Mix together the dry ingredients and form a mound in the center of your work surface. Use your fingertips to create a well in the center, like a volcano.

2. Slowly begin to pour water, little by little, into the center of the well.

3. Using a fork and bench knife, slowly begin working the flour into water, working methodically, from the center outwards, gradually incorporating more flour as you go.

4. Once the dough becomes shaggy, you can now use your hands to begin working it together with more pressure. If it feels too dry, add a little room temperature water. And if it feels too wet, add a little flour. Knead/work the dough for about ten minutes, which will result in a nice smooth, elastic ball of dough. Wrap the ball in plastic wrap (or cover with a wet towel).

5. Rest in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes.

6. Unwrap the dough and cut off about 1/4. Wrap the portion that is on standby.

7. Lightly dust the work surface and press down to flatter the cut piece of dough.

8. Begin rolling out the dough with a rolling pin (mattarello). If you prefer to use a pasta roller for this, that will work also. Work methodically, going from the center outwards to the edges, creating a rectangular sheet (sfoglia) about the length of your hand. Sprinkle with more flour if the dough seems to be sticking to any surface. Roll it out to about a few millimeters thickness, flipping the pasta sheet over a few times to work from both sides.

9. Using a knife, working from the edge, slice ribbons of the dough about a centimeter wide.

10. One by one, take each cut piece, and gently begin rolling it in your fingertips. Start in the center, and with a rocking motion back and forth, roll the piece down into the palm of your hands, working outwards. The video below will help visualize the process.

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11. Each piece of pici should be about a few millimeters in diameter - keep it mind it will swell when cooked.

12. Repeat the process with all the remaining dough, setting aside the finished pici into little nests. The nests of noodles should be sprinkled with some semolina as they air dry to prevent them from sticking. These can stay in the refrigerator for up to 24 hrs or cooked right away.

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The Sauce

The preparation of the crabs is by far the most labor intensive part of this recipe. If you want to save some steps, you could use lump crab meat added to the red sauce - but you will miss out on some of the flavor you get from the simmering crabs.

Ingredients:

12 live blue crabs

3 x 28oz cans of high quality whole peeled tomatoes crushed by hand (Bianco DiNapoli, Gusto Rosso, Cento)

1 yellow onion (peeled, cut in half)

4 cloves of garlic (minced)

1/2 cup white wine

1/2 tbsp red chili flakes

1/4 cup tomato paste

2 bay leaves

Extra virgin olive oil

Few tbsp butter

Salt and pepper to taste

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Directions:

  1. Cleaning the crabs (which is a two step process) is your biggest task. There are many Youtube tutorials that demonstrate exactly how to do it so I won’t go too deep on that here. I stunned them in ice until they were in torpor before I remove the top shell, split them in half, and removed the guts. There are also strong opinions from folks who think it’s a crime to take the guts out, but for this recipe I wanted to keep the sauce a bit “cleaner.” After they are scrubbed, gutted, and split - set them aside on a bed of ice while you move on to the next steps.

  2. Bring a large pot up to medium heat and pour in a few tbsp of olive oil.

  3. Add the split onion halves and simmer for a few minutes before adding the bay leaf, red chili flakes, and garlic. Stir continuously to prevent burning. Add the tomato paste and continue stirring for another minute or so. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

  4. Add the white wine and cook down for a few more minutes before adding the crabs - layering them on top of each other until they fill the pot. Stir together so they get coated in the juices on the bottom of the pan. Cover and allow to steam for about 5 minutes.

  5. Uncover and add the tomatoes so they cover all of the crabs. Stir carefully and bring back to a simmer. Simmer for about another 20 minutes until the crabs have turned bright red.

  6. Remove from the heat, and transfer the crabs to a large bowl to allow to cool so you can handle them. Add the butter to the remaining sauce and stir to incorporate. Set a large pot of water to boil.

  7. Once the crabs have cooled you’ll begin breaking the shells apart to separate the meat. You’ll need one small bowl for the meat and another for the empty shells. The back fin joints provide the most choice meat, but work as diligently as you can to collect as much as you can. I like to leave a few pieces in their shells to garnish each plate.

  8. Once you have a small bowl full of meat, you can fold it back into the sauce and stir to incorporate. Bring back to a low simmer as you cook the pasta.

  9. The fresh pasta will take 2-3 minutes to cook.

  10. Drain the pasta, and transfer it directly into a bowl with the hot crab sauce. Stir to coat every noodle.

  11. Plate each dish and top with a generous spoonful of more crab sauce and a few pieces of crab claws.

  12. Enjoy!

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Meatball Sub (With Venison)

This sandwich was inspired by Daniel Uditi, the chef over at Pizzana. My spin on the classic meatball sub was to swap out the beef with freshly ground venison from this year’s harvest. Since the venison is so lean I cut the blend with 50% ground pork to add some fat back into the equation. The meatballs were packed into homemade sesame rolls and finished off in a wood fired oven. Video showing the entire process below.

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The Meatballs

1 pound ground venison (or substitute with beef)

1 pound ground pork

2 cloves of garlic (finely minced)

¼ cup chopped parsley

1 cup of torn stale bread pieces, soaked in buttermilk*

¾ cup grated parmesan

Dried chili flakes (to your liking)

1 Egg

Salt and Pepper

Buttermilk

*I like to use any stale homemade sourdough bread I have laying around, but store bought works just as well. I like larger torn pieces as they give the meatball some airiness that you won’t get with the store-bought breadcrumbs. But if the pieces are too big, the meatball might begin to fall apart.

Stale bread soaking in buttermilk

Stale bread soaking in buttermilk

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I brown my meatballs in a wood fired oven to give it a little smokey flavor but this can easily be done in a cast iron skillet. Brown all sides of each meatball and set aside as they cook. Once all the meatballs are browned, transfer them over to your simmering pot of red sauce and continue simmering (on low) for another 30 - 45 minutes until the meatballs are cooked all the way through.

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This is my Nonna’s classic red sauce that I rarely deviate from. 

Stewed whole San Marzano tomatoes

Garlic

Yellow onion

Basil

Parmesan Rind

Salt

Pepper

Extra virgin olive oil

The key here is simplicity, and good ingredients (especially the tomatoes). Lightly puree the tomatoes in a processor or with a stick blender. Be careful not to aerate the tomatoes too much. For a chunkier sauce you can simply crush the tomatoes by hand. Set aside in a bowl. Peel and dice three to five cloves of garlic and set aside. Peel and chop the onion in half. By cooking the entire halves you will impart the flavor of the onion and the sauce won’t have chunks of onion in it. 

Heat a generous pour of EVOO in your saucepan at medium to low heat. Add your garlic and onion halves and let simmer for a few minutes. Be careful not to burn anything. Add a piece of parmesan rind into the hot oil, and let it simmer for another minute. The oils from the cheese will add depth to the sauce. Add your tomatoes to the pan, and bring to a simmer. Add salt and pepper to taste. My Nonna would often use a pinch of white granulated sugar just to add a little more sweetness but if you’re using good quality tomatoes this step is not necessary. Add some chopped basil, stir, and set on medium/low. You want your sauce to simmer for about 30 - 45 minutes. Stir frequently to make sure it's not sticking to the bottom.

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Finishing Touches

I serve the meatballs (and sauce) on homemade sesame rolls that I’ve been iterating on this for the past year. That recipe can be found here. Slice each roll and open up like a book and set into a skillet or pan. Fill the entire surface with meatballs and ladle on a generous helping of sauce. Top with good quality buffalo mozzarella. Put the entire skillet back into the wood fire (or in your oven) until the cheese is completely melted. Remove from the heat, garnish with some fresh basil and your sandwich is ready to go.

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Shredded Short Rib Sandwich on Wood Fired Sourdough Roll

Growing up in a home of Sicilian immigrants my food experience was very much influenced by the traditions that my parents and grandparents brought with them to America. Rustic and at times unusual foods that were part of my daily life. There were also instances where the Italian and American influences came crashing together in delicious ways.

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I have vivid memories of standing around the kitchen watching my Nonnas prepare red sauce and anxiously waiting for them to make me a sauce sandwich - which simply, is a big ladle full of hot sauce slathered on a piece of Wonder bread and topped off with another slice. The weight of the sauce would practically dissolve the flimsy pieces of bread but it was always one of the most satisfying bites of food that I can remember. It’s kind of the perfect representation of my entire food experience.

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This sandwich is my homage to them, a sauce sandwich made with a deep and decadent 5 hour meat sauce with shredded short ribs, topped with grated caciocavallo, basil, and served on a wood fired sourdough roll. This is serious business.

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