Blood Orange & Pistachio Olive Oil Cake

Here’s a riff on my previous upside down blood orange olive oil cake which opts for a blood orange glaze instead of sliced fruit. It’s a little less fussy, but equally as impressive. The crushed pistachios are completely optional but make for a wonderful compliment to the citrus. Video of the process down below.

Ingredients

1 cup all purpose flour

½ cup whole wheat flour

1/2 cup cornmeal (coarse)

3/4 cup fine granulated sugar (caster) *regular white sugar works fine!

½ cup blood orange juice (freshly squeezed) + ¼ cup for glaze

2 tsp baking powder

1/4 tsp baking soda

1/4 tsp salt

3 eggs

1/2 plain yogurt (sour cream works well too)

1/2 cup olive oil

1 tbsp butter at room temperature

½ cup confectioner’s sugar (for glaze)

Chunky flake salt

1/4 cup crushed pistachios

Directions:

Set your oven for 350F.

Add the yogurt to the sugar and whisk together until incorporated. Add in the eggs and olive oil and continue to mix together. Add in all of the dry ingredients one by one and continue mixing. Finally whisk in the blood orange juice. 

Grease your baking pan liberally with butter and line with a sheet of parchment paper and add more butter to the top of the paper. Pour the batter into your pan. 

Bake for 30-35 minutes until done. If using a deeper rectangular pan, this may take 35-45 minutes. Use a toothpick to make sure it is fully cooked through. It should come out clean. Allow to cool for 15-20 minutes while you prepare your glaze. 

In a small bowl add the confectioner’s sugar. Slowly begin whisking in the remaining blood orange juice little by little until it has the consistency somewhere between maple syrup and icing. A little juice goes a long way. You should be able to drizzle/pour the glaze over the cooled cake and it should begin to firm up within a few minutes. Before it fully hardens, sprinkle the flake salt all over the surface. If adding crushed pistachios, now is the time to sprinkle on a layer across the top.

Brik with Wild Spring Greens & Morel Mushrooms

Brik is a popular north African street food with many different regional variations. The version I’ve come to love are commonplace in Tunis, where my dad spent the first 14 years of his life. It wasn’t until more recently that I truly realized how special they are. Tumeric spiced potatoes, capers, chopped onion, and a whole egg packed into a delicate pastry dough, fried until crispy, topped with some harissa or fermented bomba paste and a squeeze of lemon. They are deeply satisfying. Crunchy on the exterior and velvety on the inside.

The version here layers in some freshly foraged ramp leaves and morels - but any sort of fresh herbs or greens (think nettles, wintercress, spring onions, etc) would work really well in this format. The recipe here features a homemade pastry dough - mixed together like a crepe batter and painted onto a nonstick pan on a double boiler. If you don’t want to make a fuss, any store bought spring roll wrappers work really well too.

Recipe as follows and video of the whole process below.

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The Pastry Dough (Warqa)

Ingredients

100 g 00 Flour

150 g semola flour (or similar)

1 tbsp olive oil

1 tsp salt

450 g room temperature water

*makes about 10 8” circles

Directions

  1. Mix all ingredients together in a bowl and whisk together until there are no clumps. You can use a food processor for this step as well.

  2. Cover and allow to rest for 1 hour.

  3. Set a non stick pan over a pot of boiling water to create a double boiler.

  4. Lightly coat the surface with olive oil. This step is important and you’ll want to ensure the surface is clean and oiled before each time you make a sheet of dough.

  5. Using a brush, “paint” on a thin layer of the batter across the entire surface. Work quickly and make sure there are no holes as you go. The batter will quickly start to solidify on the hot pan. After about 3 - 4 minutes the dough should be ready. Use a spatula or utensil to peel the dough away from the edges of the pan, carefully remove the pastry dough and transfer to a clean work surface to air dry. Repeat the process until all the batter is gone.

  6. After air drying, they can be stacked and if done properly they will not stick to one another. Wrap in a clean towel and set aside until ready to cook.

The Brik

Ingredients

About 6 medium yellow potatoes (peeled)

1 tbsp tumeric powder

1 tsp salt

About 6 - 8 ramp leaves (or finely diced red onion)

8 oz of fresh morels (or similar mushroom)

2 tbsp chopped capers

1/4 cup good olive oil

Directions

  1. Bring a pot of water to a boil and boil the potatoes until fork tender (about 20 minutes).

  2. Drain and set aside to cool.

  3. In a medium skillet saute the diced morel mushrooms in some olive oil. They will reduce in size significantly as they cook. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Cook for about 10 minutes until they start to form a nice brown color. Add chopped ramp leaves and saute for a few minutes until the mixture is well incorporated and fragrant.

  4. Mix the ramps and morels with the potatoes and use a fork to smash it all together.

  5. Add the capers, tumeric, and olive oil, a little salt and pepper and continue mashing.

  6. The mixture should be slightly chunky and glistening with the olive oil. Here you can add some harissa to the mixture if you like it spicy.

  7. Bring a nonstick pan to medium heat and cover the bottom with olive oil.

  8. On a clean plate, lay down a sheet of the pastry dough. On one half of the dough spoon on the potato mixture and carefully create a well in the center large enough to crack an egg in the middle and leaving room along the edges to fold over.

  9. Brush on an egg wash along the edges, fold the circle in half, pressing the edges to seal and carefully slide the brik into the hot pan. Fry for about 3 minutes until crispy and golden brown. Using a spatula, carefully flip the brik over and fry the other side for another 3 minutes until golden brown.

  10. Transfer to a paper towel lined dish to absorb excess oil and allow to cool for a few minutes before eating.

  11. Serve with harissa, fermented bomba, and a squeeze of lemon.

brik 1.jpg

Wild Mushroom Lasagna with Black Trumpet Bescamel

A wild summer mushroom lasagna with a black trumpet bechamel. The foundation of the recipe was heavily inspired by Evan Funke ‘s American Sfoglino which is a great book for anyone obsessed with pasta. This was decadent yet subtle - nothing beats a big fat corner of lasagna with crispy edges. Full recipe below along with a detailed video of the process.

The Pasta

Ingredients

454 g 00 Flour

258 g eggs (beaten before mixing)

*makes roughly 5 layers of 9 x 13 inch pasta. Four of those layers can be cut exactly to the size of your pan, and with the scraps you can assemble the 5th layer.

Directions

  1. Mix the flours and dump out the weighed amount onto a clean work surface.

  2. Use your hand to form a well (like a volcano) in the center of the flour.

  3. Carefully pour your eggs into the center and begin slowly mixing together with a fork. Gradually, carefully, work your way all around to incorporate the eggs with the flour, without breaking the outer wall. A bench scraper is a handy tool to have at this point if you have one.

  4. After about 5 - 10 minutes it will start coming together into a shaggy mass. Begin using your hands to knead the dough together. Work diligently for another 5 minutes until it is no longer shaggy.

  5. Use the edges of your hands, knuckles, to work the dough until it starts to form a smooth ball. Knead it, applying pressure, into the work surface. Fold it. Knead it again. After about ten minutes it should be smooth and ready to rest.

  6. Cut the dough into two and wrap each in plastic wrap. Set into the fridge for at least 30 minutes.

  7. The following steps revolve around using a mattarello (Italian rolling pin) - but you could also do this with a pasta machine. Remove one of the dough balls, unwrap, cut it in half (resulting in 1/4 the amount of the original dough ball. Wrap the other half while you roll your first sheet. Place the cut piece of pasta dough in the center of your work surface. Apply a light dusting of flour to both the surface and the top of the dough.

  8. Slowly apply downwards pressure with the rolling pin, starting from the center of the ball and moving outwards. Repeat, methodically, always working from the center outwards - creating the general shape of the pan you’ll be baking the lasagna in. The sfoglia (pasta dough) will gradually begin to flatten and create a large round sheet on your work surface. If you’re finding the dough sticky, use a tiny bit more flour. Periodically flip the dough over and work from the other side. This process requires a little elbow grease and about 10-15 minutes of your time. You’ll know you’re done when the dough stops pulling inwards on itself and the thickness is about 2-3 mm. It should be light and delicate but be able to retain it’s shape. Cut the sfoglia into 9 x 13 inch pieces, saving the scraps to assemble another layer of the lasagna. Allow the dough to air dry while you gather all the other ingredients - ready to assemble the layers into your baking tray.

  9. Blanch each sheet of pasta in boiling salted water for about 30 - 45 seconds each.

  10. Remove with a slotted spoon, drain excess water, and layer right into the baking pan.

The Mushrooms

Ingredients

2 lbs of fresh chanterelles

3 shallots (finely chopped)

4 cloves of garlic (finely chopped)

Fresh thyme

Olive oil

Salt and pepper

Directions

  1. Clean the mushrooms of any debris and slice into thin pieces. Set aside.

  2. Bring a skillet up to medium heat and saute the finely diced shallots in olive oil until translucent.

  3. Add the finely diced garlic and thyme and saute for another few minutes.

  4. Add the chanterelles and cook them down for about ten minutes until they significantly reduce in size and begin to brown.

  5. Season with salt and pepper and set aside to cool down.

The Black Trumpet Bescamel

Ingredients

15 g dried black trumpets (blitz into a fine powder)

8 tbsp butter

1 cup 00 flour

5 cups or 236 grams of whole milk

A pinch of grated nutmeg

Salt

Directions

  1. Bring a heavy duty skillet up to medium heat.

  2. Melt the butter in the pan.

  3. Slowly add the flour into the butter and whisk constantly. The trick with bescamel is patience, being slow and steady to incorporate the ingredients gradually to avoid it being lumpy.

  4. Continue adding all the flour to the butter and the mixture will start to become crumbly and fragrant as it browns/toasts in the pan. Keep whisking the mixture for about 5 minutes before adding the milk in little by little - constantly whisking to incorporate. The milk will begin to loosen the crumbly mixture and after a few minutes of stirring it will appear silky. Add a little more milk if it feels too thick.

  5. Season with salt, and a pinch of grated nutmeg, and add the black trumpet powder.

  6. Continue to stir on low heat for another few minutes.

  7. Remove from the heat and allow to cool down before using it in the lasagna.

The Lasagna

Ingredients

The pasta sheets

The sauteed mushroom mixture

The black trumpet bescamel

Grated pecorino romano or parmesan

Fresh basil for garnish

Directions

  1. On the bottom of your baking pan, spoon in a layer of bescamel and coat the pan evenly.

  2. Add your first sheet of blanched pasta dough.

  3. Add an even layer of the cooked mushrooms, spread evenly across the surface.

  4. Spoon on another layer of bescamel, followed by a generous sprinkling of grated cheese.

  5. Lay in another sheet of pasta and repeat the process until you have no more left. This recipe will yield about 5 sheets that are 9 x 13 inches. The thicker you make your pasta, the less surface area you’ll get. Be sure to save all your scraps of pasta as you cut them down to size - to reassemble them to create another layer of pasta.

  6. Bake (covered) for 30 minutes at 375F.

  7. Remove the cover, and bake for another 30 minutes uncovered.

  8. Remove from the oven and allow to cool down for at least ten minutes.

  9. The steaming pasta will start to settle and firm up as it cools.

  10. Cut into pieces and garnish with more freshly grated cheese and fresh basil.

Pici & Crab Sauce

Pici has been on my to-do list for a while. This style of pasta originates in the Tuscan region in Italy. It’s a thicker - rustic noodle that stands up well to ragus and heavier sauces. They're also one of the easier style pastas to make that require minimal tools or technical finessing. I opted for an eggless dough to keep it true to its roots. Flour & water- in this case a mix of 00 @mulinocaputo , tumminia flour from @molini_del_ponte_drago , and semolina. For the sauce I went pretty untraditional - a red sauce using @biancodinapolitomatoes tomatoes, white wine, chili flakes, butter, evoo, bay leaf, loads of garlic and a whole mess of blue crabs. Non traditional yes, but super decadent and well worth the effort. Video of the process is below.

pici plate 2.jpg

The Pasta

Ingredients:

156 g semolina

168 g 00 flour

68 g tumminia flour or similar (whole wheat)

190 g water

1 tbsp olive oil

*serves 4 - 5 people

pici flours.jpg

Directions:

1. Mix together the dry ingredients and form a mound in the center of your work surface. Use your fingertips to create a well in the center, like a volcano.

2. Slowly begin to pour water, little by little, into the center of the well.

3. Using a fork and bench knife, slowly begin working the flour into water, working methodically, from the center outwards, gradually incorporating more flour as you go.

4. Once the dough becomes shaggy, you can now use your hands to begin working it together with more pressure. If it feels too dry, add a little room temperature water. And if it feels too wet, add a little flour. Knead/work the dough for about ten minutes, which will result in a nice smooth, elastic ball of dough. Wrap the ball in plastic wrap (or cover with a wet towel).

5. Rest in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes.

6. Unwrap the dough and cut off about 1/4. Wrap the portion that is on standby.

7. Lightly dust the work surface and press down to flatter the cut piece of dough.

8. Begin rolling out the dough with a rolling pin (mattarello). If you prefer to use a pasta roller for this, that will work also. Work methodically, going from the center outwards to the edges, creating a rectangular sheet (sfoglia) about the length of your hand. Sprinkle with more flour if the dough seems to be sticking to any surface. Roll it out to about a few millimeters thickness, flipping the pasta sheet over a few times to work from both sides.

9. Using a knife, working from the edge, slice ribbons of the dough about a centimeter wide.

10. One by one, take each cut piece, and gently begin rolling it in your fingertips. Start in the center, and with a rocking motion back and forth, roll the piece down into the palm of your hands, working outwards. The video below will help visualize the process.

rolling pici.jpg

11. Each piece of pici should be about a few millimeters in diameter - keep it mind it will swell when cooked.

12. Repeat the process with all the remaining dough, setting aside the finished pici into little nests. The nests of noodles should be sprinkled with some semolina as they air dry to prevent them from sticking. These can stay in the refrigerator for up to 24 hrs or cooked right away.

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The Sauce

The preparation of the crabs is by far the most labor intensive part of this recipe. If you want to save some steps, you could use lump crab meat added to the red sauce - but you will miss out on some of the flavor you get from the simmering crabs.

Ingredients:

12 live blue crabs

3 x 28oz cans of high quality whole peeled tomatoes crushed by hand (Bianco DiNapoli, Gusto Rosso, Cento)

1 yellow onion (peeled, cut in half)

4 cloves of garlic (minced)

1/2 cup white wine

1/2 tbsp red chili flakes

1/4 cup tomato paste

2 bay leaves

Extra virgin olive oil

Few tbsp butter

Salt and pepper to taste

crabs on counter.jpg

Directions:

  1. Cleaning the crabs (which is a two step process) is your biggest task. There are many Youtube tutorials that demonstrate exactly how to do it so I won’t go too deep on that here. I stunned them in ice until they were in torpor before I remove the top shell, split them in half, and removed the guts. There are also strong opinions from folks who think it’s a crime to take the guts out, but for this recipe I wanted to keep the sauce a bit “cleaner.” After they are scrubbed, gutted, and split - set them aside on a bed of ice while you move on to the next steps.

  2. Bring a large pot up to medium heat and pour in a few tbsp of olive oil.

  3. Add the split onion halves and simmer for a few minutes before adding the bay leaf, red chili flakes, and garlic. Stir continuously to prevent burning. Add the tomato paste and continue stirring for another minute or so. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

  4. Add the white wine and cook down for a few more minutes before adding the crabs - layering them on top of each other until they fill the pot. Stir together so they get coated in the juices on the bottom of the pan. Cover and allow to steam for about 5 minutes.

  5. Uncover and add the tomatoes so they cover all of the crabs. Stir carefully and bring back to a simmer. Simmer for about another 20 minutes until the crabs have turned bright red.

  6. Remove from the heat, and transfer the crabs to a large bowl to allow to cool so you can handle them. Add the butter to the remaining sauce and stir to incorporate. Set a large pot of water to boil.

  7. Once the crabs have cooled you’ll begin breaking the shells apart to separate the meat. You’ll need one small bowl for the meat and another for the empty shells. The back fin joints provide the most choice meat, but work as diligently as you can to collect as much as you can. I like to leave a few pieces in their shells to garnish each plate.

  8. Once you have a small bowl full of meat, you can fold it back into the sauce and stir to incorporate. Bring back to a low simmer as you cook the pasta.

  9. The fresh pasta will take 2-3 minutes to cook.

  10. Drain the pasta, and transfer it directly into a bowl with the hot crab sauce. Stir to coat every noodle.

  11. Plate each dish and top with a generous spoonful of more crab sauce and a few pieces of crab claws.

  12. Enjoy!

simmering crabs.jpg

Sun Gold Margherita

It’s that time of year again when we’re flush with sun golds. The occasion calls for making one of my favorite summer sauces from slow and low roasted sun gold tomatoes, garlic, basil and a generous bath of olive oil. After cooking for about an hour and a half, each tomato is peeled and pressed through a fine mesh strainer or food mill. The resulting sauce is so incredible on pizza or pasta and the oil that remains in the pan is a revelation- drizzled on some good bread, used in a salad dressing, or on whatever else you can think of. The skins can also be used to make a killer tomato paste/spread - pulverized with a mortar and pestle - and slathered onto some toast. Nothing gets wasted. The sauce is so perfect I wanted to keep this pizza super simple with sun gold sauce, mozzarella, basil, and grated pecorino Romano. Video of the process is below.

sungold pie.jpg

Ingredients:

Sun Gold cherry tomatoes (2 – 3 lbs)

Garlic (4 cloves smashed)

Grated pecorino Romano cheese

Extra Virgin Olive oil

Basil

Mozzarella

roasted sungolds.jpg

Sauce Instructions:

  1. The real heart of this pizza is the Sun Gold sauce. It’s so simple but as Frank Prisinzano would say – it’s insane. Set your oven to 275F.

  2. Fill a deep skillet with the tomatoes. Pour in a generous amount of olive oil. The tomatoes don’t need to be submerged, but you want a healthy layer on oil in the bottom of the pan. This oil, by the time you’re done, will be a transcendent addition to grilled veggies, salads, or anything else you can think of.

  3. Add the garlic and a generous amount of basil, toss together.

  4. Roast for about an hour and a half until the tomatoes are fragrant, soft, and the skin is starting to fall off.

  5. Remove from the oven and allow to cool a little before handling.

  6. The next part is the most labor intensive. You will now peel each individual tomato and squeeze out the meat into a bowl.

  7. Reserve the tomato skins which can be dehydrated and made into salt, or pulverized in a mortar and pestle to make a delicious tomato paste/spread.

  8. Use your fingers to mash the tomatoes and transfer to a wire mesh colander or a food mill and press to remove the seeds.

  9. What’s left is an amazing bright orange tomato sauce that works well for pizza and pasta dishes.

peeling tomatoes.jpg
straining sauce.jpg

The Dough:

For the pizza dough I have been very happy using a Ken Forkish recipe from Flour Water Salt Yeast for an overnight dough with levain. It’s one of the few recipes that I have decided not to mess with as it always yields great results. Recently I’ve been using Caputo Manitoba flour which has been delivering wonderful results.

The Assembly & Finishing:

  1. Stretch your dough working on a lightly floured work surface.

  2. Spoon on the Sun Gold sauce evenly and generously.

  3. Evenly spread out slices or torn chunks of mozzarella on the pizza.

  4. Hit it with a layer of freshly grated pecorino.

  5. Drizzle a little olive oil on top.

  6. Bake in the oven according to your specific temperature and style of oven. I use a wood fired oven and like to keep it around 750-800F and it cooks in about 2-3 minutes, constantly rotating the pie with a peel. If baking in a conventional oven, this will typically be at a lower temperature (550F) and it will take several more minutes.

  7. Remove from the oven and finish with some more freshly grated pecorino and fresh basil leaves.

  8. Slice and enjoy!

 

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