Candy Cap Caramel Donuts

An experiment. When I first started reading about candy caps I was immediately intrigued. People always describe them in such vivid detail, emitting a perfume that smells overwhelmingly like maple syrup. A smell that saturates the room for hours. It’s one of the few mushrooms that lends itself to sweets and non-savory applications. While they don’t grow on the East Coast I was fortunate to get my hands on some from @theforagedfeast . I cycled through various ideas about what to make, read through all of @foragerchef ‘s lovely candy cap recipes and eventually circled back to something closer to home - donuts. The initial reaction might be WTF, or mushrooms don’t belong in donuts, but I assure you that these are not your average mushrooms. There might be some mental threshold that needs to be crossed for the mushroom skeptics out there, but on taste alone these are pretty special. I used a small percentage of dried candy cap powder for the dough which was naturally leavened over two days, deep fried, glazed and drizzled with a decadent salted candy cap caramel sauce. They might not end up on the menu of my hypothetical donut shop that I've been dreaming up, but they were a worthy experiment to work with some unexpected wild ingredients and produce something sweet and delicious with an incredible texture. Video of the whole process below.

Ingredients:

230 g Manitoba 0 Flour (or similar)

25 g Whole Wheat Tumminia Flour

12 g dried candy cap powder

50 g water

40 g sugar

50 g butter (cubed)

90 g eggs (approx 2 medium sized)

5 g salt

110 g active sourdough starter

1 tsp vanilla

1 gallon neutral oil

*makes approximately 6 - 8 donuts depending on size

The recipe is spread out over three days and in my opinion is well worth the wait. The natural leavening always yields a tastier end result. I normally start my process around 12pm on day 1 which results in fresh donuts for breakfast two days later.

The Dough

Directions:

1. 12 pm Day 1 - In a stand mixer, combine all your ingredients and mix for about 10 minutes.

2. This is very similar to a brioche dough, so at first it will feel quite sticky to the touch, even after ten minutes of mixing.

3. Transfer the dough to a bowl and cover.

4. Over the next 5-6 hours you’ll want to fold the dough with your hands 4 times. Let the dough relax for at least 30 minutes in between each fold. By the fourth fold the dough will feel a lot less sticky and will be smoother to the touch. Avoid the urge to add flour if you find it is too sticky.

5. 6pm Day 1 - Transfer the covered bowl to the refrigerator and forget about it for 24 hrs.

6. 6pm Day 2 - Remove dough from the refrigerator and allow to relax for about 30 minutes. Do one more round of folding and set out at room temperature overnight.

7. 7am Day 3 - Gently flour your work surface and dump out the dough.

8. Bring your neutral oil up to 350F.

9. Use your hands to spread it out evenly. Use a rolling pin to gently roll out the dough to approximately 3/4 inch thickness. Do not press down too hard as you want to keep some rise to the dough.

10. Using a circular cookie cutter approx 4” in diameter, punch out as many donuts as possible. Save the scraps for maltagliate - ugly leftover shapes of dough that shouldn’t go to waste!

11. Use another circular punch about 1/2” in diameter to punch out the holes in the center of each donut. Gently use your fingers to stretch it out ever so slightly.

12. Drop each circular dough into the oil and fry for about 3 minutes each side until golden brown.

13. Remove from the oil and set onto a rack or paper towels to dry off and cool slightly.

The Candy Cap Caramel

This recipe is based on a recipe from Sally McKenney.

Ingredients:

1 cup (200g) granulated sugar

6 Tablespoons (90g) unsalted, room temperature cut up into 6 pieces

1/2 cup (120ml) heavy cream, at room temperature

2 teaspoons big chunky flake salt

20g dried candy cap powder

Directions:

1. Bring a medium sized saucepan to medium heat and add the granulated sugar. Using a rubber spatula or whisk, stir constantly for a few minutes until the sugar eventually melts into a thick brown liquid. Continue to stir and lower the flame to a low simmer.

2. Once there are no more lumps, add the butter and continue stirring to combine. Whisk/stir vigorously so the sugar and butter combines without looking clumpy. This will take a few minutes.

3. Add the candy cap powder and continue stirring for another minute.

4. Very slowly pour in the heavy cream and continue stirring. It will begin to bubble as it simmers. Allow it to simmer like this for about 1 minute.

5. Remove from the heat and as it cools add in the flake salt.

6. Allow it to completely cool before using.

7. It will keep in the fridge for about 1 month.

The Final Donut

The donuts are then dipped in a plain glaze and drizzled with the candy cap caramel. Best enjoyed while still slightly warm.

Sourdough Sticky Buns

When you’re wife tells you this is one of the best things you’ve ever made, you know you’re on the right track.

Ingredients:

160 g whole milk

28 g melted butter (not hot)

1 egg

100 g active starter

24 g sugar

300 g flour (I used 00)

5 g salt

*This formula works for an approximately 7-8” round cast iron skillet/pan

For filling:

1/2 cup Brown sugar

1/2 cup white sugar

1 Tbsp cinnamon

2 Tbsp melted butter (not hot)

For glaze & garnish:

1/2 cup Whipped cream cheese

1/2 cup Confectioner sugar

3 Tbsp Butter

Pistachios

Flake salt

This is 36 hr process that is designed for a slow ferment and planned out so you can wake and bake without any elaborate prep during the last step. The most complicated part of the process happens at night during day 2.

Directions:

1. 9 pm day 1- Mix together all of the ingredients in a stand mixer and work the dough until smooth. About 10 minutes at high speed.

2. Cover and set out overnight at room temperature.

3. In the morning, transfer the dough into the fridge.

4. 9 pm day 2- Take dough out of the fridge and rest for about ten minutes to loosen up a little.

5. Dust a work surface with flour and dump out the dough. Dust the top of the dough with more flour. Begin forming a rectangular shape with the dough then take a rolling pin to gently press it down into a uniform thickness of about 1/4 inch. Do you best to make it as rectangular and uniform as possible. Try to work quickly as the dough gets harder to work with as it warms up.

6. Brush on the melted butter evenly across the whole surface. Mix together the brown, white sugar and cinnamon and sprinkle on evenly across the whole surface.

7. Carefully take one of the long edges of the dough and start rolling up like a coil. Make sure it is tight and there are no big air pockets. You can use a bench knife and a little bit more flour if you find it sticking to the surface of your work area. Roll it tightly.

8. Use a sharp knife and cut the roll into medallions of equal size.

9. Line a cast iron skillet (or whatever baking dish you prefer) with parchment paper and drizzle in melted butter so it covers the bottom of the parchment.

10. Layer in the rolled dough medallions evenly. As they continue to proof they will expand and press into each other. Drizzle any extra butter all over the top of the pan, cover tightly, and return to the fridge until the morning.

11. 6-7 am Day 3- Take the skillet out of the fridge, uncover, and let proof at room temperature for 1- 2 hrs. Set your oven to 350F.

12. Meanwhile, start making the glaze. Whisk together melted butter and confectioner’s sugar slowly adding the sugar. Add in the whipped cream cheese and continue to whisk together vigorously. I like to set mine on top of a double boiler to keep the glaze more workable, without the risk of burning it with direct heat. If it sits out too long at cooler temperatures it will begin to solidify.

13. Bake the buns for about 40 minutes until the surface is a nice golden brown.

14. Remove from the oven and transfer the buns to a cooling rack. As it’s cooling for about 10 minutes, drizzle on the glaze. Sprinkle with chopped pistachios and flake salt.

Vanilla Bean Panna Cotta with Wild Berries

Vanilla bean panna cotta with wild berries was the consolation prize for the continued wait for my favorite chanterelle spot. I came home with an abundance of wineberries and blackberries which I reduced with Marsala and sugar and drizzled on top of these creamy mountains of panna cotta. Super simple summer dessert to combat the heat. Recipe as follows and video of the process below.

Ingredients

1 quart heavy cream

1 cup half and half

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1 whole vanilla bean, split and scraped

2 3/4 tsp unflavored gelatin powder

3 tbsp water

1 tbsp honey

2 cups of fresh berries

1/2 cup of Marsala

1/2 cup granulated sugar

Panna Cotta Instructions

1. In a saucepan, combine the cream, half and half, sugar, honey, and vanilla bean (both the seeds, scraped and removed, and the entire bean itself which you’ll remove later). Bring the mixture to a low simmer. Cover, remove from heat, and set aside for 15 minutes.

2. Mix together the gelatin powder and the water in a small bowl while the cream steeps.

3. Uncover the cream and bring back to a low simmer. Remove from the heat again and add in the gelatin mixture, stirring with a whisk. Remove the vanilla bean. Allow to cool for a few minutes while you set up your ramekins, bowls, or glasses in which you will pour in the cream mixture.

4. Carefully ladle equal portions of the cream mixture into each container, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at minimum of 3 hours up to 24 hours. This is a good recipe to make ahead.

5. If you want to keep it easy, just serve the panna cotta in the bowl or glass with the berry mixture poured over the top. Or if you want a slightly fancier presentation you can remove the panna cotta by quickly lowering the ramekin into a warm bath of water, freeing the edges with a knife, and carefully flipping it oven onto the surface of your plate. It will hold it’s shape.

Berry Sauce Instructions

1. Bring the Marsala to a simmer in a saucepan.

2. Add the sugar and continue stirring for about 5 minutes.

3. As it begins to reduce, add in your fresh berries. I used a combination of wild blackberries and wineberries but any berry would be good for this.

4. Continue simmering for another 10 -15 minutes, stirring frequently, and mashing the berries to release all of their juices.

5. After the mixture is thickened, remove from the heat and pass it through a fine mesh sieve and reserve all of the wonderful sauce that is extracted. Allow to cool before drizzling over the top of your panna cotta with a handful of fresh berries.

Tumminia Flour Sourdough Zeppole

I never dared mess with my Nonna’s zeppole (sfingi) recipe but after a few weeks of shelter in place all rules are out the window. If she were here to taste the result I think she’d approve. The addition of the sourdough yeast and the Sicilian tumminia flour give the sfingi a much more distinct flavor and spongy texture which I quite like. The shell also ends up being much crispier so there is an audible crunch upon taking your first bite. They behave a little differently in the hot oil and require some manual nudging of the dough as they cook - where as in the original recipe they did all the work themselves (flipping and turning over all on their own). I also added some vanilla while I was at it. And since I already committed my crime against tradition I made a simple chocolate sauce instead of the confectioner’s sugar. These were incredible and I look forward to making them again and again. 

The process is a bit more complicated and time consuming but it’s still a relatively approachable recipe.

Ingredients

80 g tumminia flour (or regular whole wheat flour)

70 g 00 Flour 

50 g active starter

4 eggs

6 tbsp butter

Pinch of salt

½ tsp vanilla

1 cup of water

Zest or orange (optional)

For the sauce

½ cup of semi-sweet chocolate chunks

1 tbsp brown sugar

2 tbsp butter

Instructions

1. Bring water to a boil. Add butter, and a little bit of salt. Stir in the flour and mix thoroughly, and quickly. Remove from heat and let cool at room temperature. 

2. Add the starter yeast and mix together well. Cover and set in the refrigerator overnight. 

3. In the morning, take out the dough and allow to get back to room temperature so the dough begins to soften again. 

4. Add eggs one at a time, mixing very well until there are no clumps of flour. Add in lemon or orange zest. Add the vanilla. The consistency should be smooth, thicker than pancake batter, but thinner than a bread dough. Let rest for a few more minutes. 

5. Bring canola or peanut oil in a dutch oven or deep fryer to 350 F. 

6. Using a spoon, drop globs of batter into the hot oil. This recipe will require a little extra attention than the traditional non-sourdough recipe. You’ll need to manually flip them once they are fully cooked on one side. Once fully browned and crispy, remove the zeppole with a slotted spoon and let rest in on a baking rack or in a bowl with paper towels to absorb the excess oil. 

7. In a small saucepan, melt together the chocolate, butter, and sugar and simmer for a few minutes - stirring well. 

5. Once the zeppole have cooled a bit, drizzle the chocolate sauce all over the top of the zeppole and enjoy.

Homemade Zeppole (Sfingi)

Zeppole, also called sfingi in Sicily, are typically associated with celebration, whether on Christmas or St. Joseph’s Day. They’re also perfect for quarantine cooking. It is the Italians’ answer to the donut and some versions can be quite elaborate, filled with ricotta cream and topped with candied fruits. This version from my Nonna is super simple. They’re light, airy, and relatively quick and easy to make with only six common ingredients. If you don’t have 00 Flour, regular all purpose will do the trick. Watch the whole process in a fun kid hosted cooking below.

Ingredients

1 cup of 00 Flour

1 cup of water

4 eggs

6 tablespoons of butter

Lemon or orange zest

Confectioners sugar

Canola oil

1. Bring water to a boil. Add butter, and a little bit of salt. Stir in the flour and mix thoroughly, and quickly. Remove from heat and let cool at room temperature.

2. Add eggs one at a time, mixing with your hands. Add in lemon or orange zest. The consistency should be smooth, thicker than pancake batter, but thinner than a bread dough. Let rest for a few more minutes. 

3. Bring canola or peanut oil in a dutch oven or deep fryer to 350 F.

4. Using a spoon, drop globs of batter into the hot oil. The trick here is to let the zeppole alone, as they begin to form a golden brown crispy shell. As they cook, they will expand, burst open, and roll over all on their own without any additional help. Once fully browned, remove the zeppole with a slotted spoon and let rest in on a baking rack or in a bowl with paper towels to absorb the excess oil.

5. Once they have cooled a bit, liberally dust with confectioners sugar and enjoy. They should be light and airy.

Upside Down Blood Orange Olive Oil Cake

This is a wonderful cake to make in the winter when blood oranges are at their peak. The addition of the coarse corn meal gives it a wonderful texture and flavor.

Ingredients:

1 1/4 cups all purpose flour

1/2 cup cornmeal (coarse)

3/4 cup fine granulated sugar (caster)

3 - 4 blood oranges

2 tsp baking powder

1/4 tsp baking soda

1/4 tsp salt

3 eggs

1/2 plain yogurt

1/2 cup olive oil

1/3 cup brown sugar

1 tbsp water

Set your oven for 350F.

Zest one orange and mix with the sugar. Peel remaining oranges and slice thinly into medallions. Carefully remove the rind with a knife, removing as much of the pith as possible without breaking the circular forms.

Add the yogurt to the sugar and whisk together. Add in the eggs and olive oil and continue to mix together. Add in all of the dry ingredients one by one and continue mixing.

Line a circular baking pan with a sheet of parchment paper. Combine the brown sugar and water, and pour over the parchment paper, and spread it around evenly so it covers the bottom of the pan. Carefully arrange the orange medallions so they fill the entire surface of the bottom of the pan. Cut smaller wedges to fill the gaps between the circles. Pour the batter to cover the oranges.

Bake for 30-35 minutes until done. Allow to cool before serving.